#735
DRINK HERE: BACKDROP
25 Jan 2024 By David Fuhrmann-Lim
I love The New Bar By Mixo Maven Dario Knox, Who Has Left The Other Room to Start Backdrop And, You Know, Change 300 Years of Cocktail Drinking As We Know It.
We’ll get to the Percolated Cocktails in a bit. Let’s talk about the space. Backdrop is inside voco Orchard Singapore but is a world unto itself – it’s not a hotel bar, even though it’s in the lobby atrium. Backdrop is nestled between high-end fashion boutiques, and you’ll have to find a QR Code to scan for entry (it’s not that difficult, ask the concierge).
Your first introduction to the space is via a make-up/costume room of a La Cage aux Folles production or something. Help yourself to a mask or groom at the mirror before the bar staff welcomes you into the second entrance, the actual stage and setting for the night. It’s a Gatsby haven decked out with 1920 props and a bar that looks like it’s always opening night, every night. That you are greeted with a warm cocktail ‘Elixir of The Golden Days’ tells you that proceedings will not be business as usual.
Much like the soundtrack of revisited classics, the menu in five acts showcases a blend of art and innovation. Of interest is the 3rd Act [The Milk Punch], where cocktails are created with the English Milk Punching techniques, and the 5th Act [The Fortified ‘Faux], which recreates cocktails without using the actual spirit needed.
For instance, my Conditum Paradoxum (☝🏼) a lesser-known spiced mulled wine, was created without any wines but instead used clever techniques blending Maker’s Mark 46, smoked oak, cinnamon, star anise, purple potato flour and cardamon. It tasted like a mulled wine and a good one at that. There is also sake made without sake.
The pure essence of botanicals is meticulously extracted through a percolation process, elevating the liquid to new heights of complexity and flavour.
And so to Dario’s fledgling menu of The Star Act: Percolated Cocktails, which aims to change the notion of 300 years of cocktails by eschewing modern kitchen equipment, shakers, bar spoons and even ice. The heart of his pioneering technique is the use of a single ingredient: neutral spirit. With his cart of ingredients, mad scientist experimentalist Dario fuses neutral spirit (chilled below freezing point) with botanical essences, and I had a cocktail in seconds! Dario describes the process as “a symphony of science and craftsmanship”.
I tried all three Percolated Cocktails: The Espresso Martini (above) was clear and pure yet tasted like a coffee cocktail, but the colour and texture took some getting used to.
[Fun Fact: Though already steeped in infusion and various modern distillation techniques, Dario upped his game to the next level by learning from Italian liquoristis (food scientists) during his travels back in Italy. This took his research to the molecular level while improving his knowledge of how monks made essences 300 years ago — old skool.]
I loved the Vesper and Sidecar (☝🏼).
It’s a groundbreaking technique which reduces cocktails to their flavours and components and only takes seconds to execute. You’re still trying to wrap your head around it: how does he make a martini without vodka or gin?
[Fun fact]: The neutral overproof spirit started at 90% ABV but is tamed with distilled water. The resulting percolated cocktails are a mite stiffer than the classic versions.]
“By percolating botanical extractions into the neutral spirit, we achieve a level of purity and complexity previously unattainable. The resulting drinks are spirit-driven and remarkably clean, offering an experience that is both familiar and entirely novel,” he explains.
Yes, a cynic might say, why not just order a classic Vesper? You could, but you’re out with your pals, you want a memorable night, you want an experience, damn it!
Percolated Cocktails promises a bar sojourn unlike any other, an unparalleled sensory experience where punters go on a flavour spectrum journey that transcends the limits of traditional mixology. The meticulous extraction of botanical essences introduces an array of nuanced and layered flavours, making each sip a revelation for the discerning palate.
Plus, one day, when this visionary technique has caught on, you can proudly look back and say, I was there when the magic first happened.
So go.
Backdrop, voco Orchard Singapore, #01-15/16, 581 Orchard Road 238883.
Wednesday – Thursday: 6 pm–2 am
Friday – Saturday: 7 pm – 3 am
Sunday: 6 pm – 2 am
#TheBackdropSg #TimelessCraftsmanship #SensoryJourney #PercolatedCocktails #CocktailsSG
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