#622
EATS + DRINKS
18 Feb 2018 By David Fuhrmann-Lim
Here’s a Coterie of Eateries, Cafes and Bars That Serve Good Food and Great Quaff.
There are bars, and there are bars with bar food, and there are food joints with bars that complement each other. And there are restaurants that do great pairings. This is our roundup of places that serve good grub and killer drinks as well. All good.
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CICADA
Eat: It’s meant to be modern Asian, which could mean a few things. Tradition Asian food done with modern techniques? Using modern ingredients to reinterpret Asian flavours? Clever plating? Either way, there’s a section of shared items (above, Five Spice Salmon $15); Big Plates include our favourite Sakura Ebi Capellini ($28), and the grill department has a Char-Grilled Seafood Platter for 3-4 pax clocking in at $72 (skip it). You’re looking for something that goes with the easy-to-drink cocktails from the tap, so we say stick to the fried stuff. Dessert wise, go with the Yam Mille Feuille—the yam is a clever touch and the pastry is the right side of crispy and sweet ($12).
Drink: A lot of effort seems to have gone into the House Cocktails, which are Bellinis ($17, $14 during HH), and each one is blended with four ingredients or more. I picked the East Side Bellini to see how they could hide the Baiju (buried but alive), and it was okay. The cocktail are somewhat prebatched, aged and kegged, and are twisted classics. The Fennicillin ($15/18) is elevated by a dash of peaty whisky, the best thing I tasted here, as was the Aperol Spritz; what can I say, I’m a simple guy to please.
Merry: We were hoping that the lounge upstairs woul be open, but alas, not to be so. The place looks inviting enough.
Cicada, Block 3C River Valley Road, Clarke Quay, #01-10
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L’ENTRECOTE CUSTOMS HOUSE
Eat: L’entrecote does beef and they do it well. The new Customs House restaurant also has a bar for sunset drinks, and was a result you get a very French bar bites menu. There are favourites: The Wagyu Beef Cubes are served with owner Olivier Bendel’s legendary secret L’entrecote oxtail sauce (56 ingredients – only he knows the recipe.) The company that produces one half of the sauce has an NDA, the rest of the ingredients we can only guess. My guess is there’s oxtail in it.
I like, in particular, the Green Olive Tapenade with Crisped Baguette ($8++), an umami hit that’s perfect with a gin tonic. Eschew chicken wings (sacre bleu!) and order instead Deep Fried Frog Legs ($18++) – which appear as little nuggets of delight. Another highlight is the Porcini, Wild Mushrooms and Comte Tarte Flambee ($26++, above), filling enough you can skip the mains in the restaurant.
Drink: Reasonably priced and starts at $8 for a Ricard, the de rigueur aperitivo from the south of France. If that’s too ‘liquorice’ for you, then go with the Lillet Vive ($10++ above) for a refreshing start. Wines are from the group’s own vineyards, I love the Terre de Soie Lirac 2015, a fruity Rhone that’s a match for meats and that secret sauce.
Merry: You can’t argue with the location. This is so ideal for happy hour and sunsets.
L’Entrecote Customs House, #01-01 Collyer Quay, tel: 6690-7565.
LES BOUCHONS RIVE GAUCHE
Eat: Two words – Riviera Brunch. The new menu is inspired by its French heritage, and is only available here, not its original establishment on Ann Siang. Head Chef Mickael Cornac has created 30 new a la carte dishes that range from healthy to hearty. The former includes the Riviera Wellness Bowl (above, $18++) made with granola, honey yoghurt, tea-soaked goji berries, banana, strawberries and chia seeds. It is too large a portion to be healthy (I jest), but you’re gonna need help with this, it’ll feed a hockey team. A more winning dish is the Bouchons Hangover Cure, served with Impossible meatballs, scrambled eggs with truffle oil, sautéd porcini mushrooms, roasted cherry tomatoes and asparagus on a toasted sourdough bread. The meatballs are juicy, and will win in any blind taste. Overall, the brunch stays true to its distinct French roots – it’s all comforting and casual.
Drink: There are cocktails, a fine selection of French wines of all magnitude, and Champagne Jean Vesselle, imported by and exclusive to the restaurant. It’s a particular tarty style of bubbly if that’s how you swing. Otherwise, do the wines. (Pity I didn’t get to try the Riviera Sunrise: gin, yuzu, orchid syrup, angostura bitters and lemon bitters.)
Merry: The crepes are a particular delight, especially the one with banana + Nutella. I’d eat three of these and have a few glasses of calvados. And given that one is right by the Singapore ‘riviera’, it’s not a bad way to spend a Sunday.
The Bouchons Riviera Brunch menu is only available only on Sundays, between 11:30am and 3:30pm. Reservations at chope.co, quandoo.sg, or call (65) 6733-4414.
Les Bouchons Rive Gauche, 60 Robertson Quay, #01-02.
PAPI’S TACOS
Eat: Chef Mauricio Espinoza brings real Mexican cooking to this very laidback and authentic taqueria. The open kitchen feels as if a taco truck has been built inside a shop house, and it’s less than no frills. The Tacos de Camaron ($13 set of 2, $19 set of 3, above) has crunchy prawns, Mexican spices, jalapeno, cabbage and sour cream and is comfortingly delicioso. Something unique is the Cactus Salad ($12), with poached Mexican cactus, red onion, red raddish, and Oaxaca cheese on mixed greens. It tastes alien yet is also oddly familiar, it’s a winner.
Chef Mauricio, a Tlaxcala native, used to work in Employees Only New York, before coming to Singapore to head up the kitchen here. He literally embodies the two words Bar and Food. It’s muy bien. (The joint is named after him.)
Drink: The easy and limited cocktails are created by Steve Schneider of Employees Only, he’s a partner here. The notorious margarita drinker has prepped a menu of classic margaritas using artisanal spirits, housemade syrups and it’s all muy fresh. A margarita is a humble drink, it just needs to be cold and be served fresh. These ones here hit all the marks, and spots. A shaken is $15, a frozen is $18. A 30ml premium tequila chupito starts at $9. Pick a tequila of your choice, add $6, and that’s your margarita.
Merry: The vibe here is convivial and informal. They managed to buy an old TV set on Carousell and it now screens old telenovelas, it’s quite a riot. Wrestling posters and the odd pinata add to a whole Mexican experience. The taco joint is fuss-free, and not to be missed.
Papi’s Taco, 39 Seah Street.Opens 5pm, closed Sunday. It’s open for lunch on weekdays now.
#PapiKnowsBest
LITTLE CREATURES
Wait, isn’t that a beer– Yes. The beer peeps from Australia have opened an outpost in Singapore – a restaurant + brewery that’ll serve libations from 8am. They’ve been around for almost 20 years, so you’re definitely familiar with their style of flavourful craft beers. And now you can get it fresh inside this heritage building just off Club Street.
To the list of your faves (Pale Ale, natch) you can now add: Club Street Sub IPA, with by a citrusy flavour and an overtone of malt followed by a strong hoppy finish; Lunar Ale, a refreshing wheat ale with hints of citrus aroma and flavour that complement the Motueka hops and subtle Belgian yeast character; and Mt. Hood IPA, an American IPA that is flavourful, earthy, and slightly spiced.
Little Creatures plan to experiment and explore new Singaporean flavours, and will brew seasonal beers, one-off specialty beers or even guest brews in collaboration with other local brewers (we likes). You’ll be surprised by the cuisine (I was), a casual Mediterranean-inspired menu with a Fremantle twist, and they do a killer vegetarian burger (nothing was killed, obvs).
Fun Fact: About the name, it’s from the live yeast present in the bottles of their Pale Ale, affectionately known by the brewers as the “little creatures”.
Little Creatures Mohamed Ali Lane, 36 Club Street (actually off Club Street). Opens 8AM EVERYDAY – a point worth repeating.
NICKELDIME
Eat: Chef Tim Ashwood (previously from Michelin-starred restaurant Hotel Plaza Athénée in Paris, and the acclaimed Vue De Monde Australia in Melbourne) takes comfort food and elevates it with culinary techniques and fresh ingredients. We like the modernised Croque Madame prepped with house made brioche, hand carved ham, spiced béchamel and a fried egg. For small bites, the signature Spinach & Kale Croquettes are a treat, and definitely ask about the delicious Scotch Eggs.
Drink: The bar has 16 worthy craft beers on tap, raging from light and fruity (Stone & Wood Green Coast Lager and Lervig Orange Velvet) to more complex brews, including Pirate Life Mosaic IPA and Black Butte Porter. We also like the Heart of Darkness range, but expect changes and tap takeovers.
Merry: The graffiti on the wall is more executive than edgy, and the music is rocking and lively. There’s football on weekends and the vibe is convivial and casual. Love the beer selection.
Nickeldime, 8 Mohamed Sultan Road, #01-01, Tel: 6735-1035.
DUSK RESTAURANT & BAR
Eat: The serene view of the stalking sunset here will whet your appetite. Dusk is perched atop Mount Faber, a stone’s throw from the cable car station. The restaurant serves European tapas – some with sly Asian touches, like this Tiger Prawn Capellini ($28), which is infused with Japanese seaweed; another highlight is the Sea Scallops with Ikura, an adventurous winner that’s supple and satisfying. The menu is designed for sharing, so swing by for Sunday brunch as well.
Drink: The focus is on the signature cocktails, which include the Smoking Nitro Margarita, Dusk Till Dawn and Nitro-Frost Caviar Martini (above). A classic or off-menu cocktail is hard to come by (limited spirits selection), but at only $16++ you should be able to enjoy a few of the 12 signatures on hand. Suggestion: Always ask for something not sweet, ‘cos it will be anyway. There’s a wide variety of wines though, decently priced – the Baron Philippe De Rothschild Merlot at $69 is quite a steal. Definitely spring for a bottle and enjoy the view.
Merry: You’re 100 metres above sea level, you’ve worked hard to get to the top, and you sure are hell are gonna enjoy the view – which is pretty sweet btw. You can look straight across to Harbourfront and Sentosa, and appreciate the lush rainforest around you. Sit back, you’re gonna be here for awhile. #DuskSG
Dusk, 109 Mount Faber Road, Faber Peak Singapore, tel: 6377-9688.
LIMEHOUSE
Eat: Limehouse, my fav Caribbean restaurant, Caribbean bar (Bago), fav Caribbean everything, has a fresh new menu with plenty of fresh ‘limin’ offerings. Some of its authentic island fare has been adapted for local palates, so you get the Crab Springroll, a thick handful of stuffed crab, callaloo (leafy veg) and cilantro coconut sauce. The Vegan Risotto is a tropical dish of delight with jerk tofu in a pumpkin and coconut broth. The menu is a highlight reel, and other standouts include Oistins Sea Basket, with deep fried squid and spicy sambal tartar sauce. (They’re not kidding about the spice level, it’s DefCon1). The classics like Jerk Chicken will always reign, but it’s time to revisit to savour their new dishes.
Drink: Rum cocktails, all the way. Start, as always, with a Daiquiri, cos when you’re limin, you gotta have lime. This fresh blend actually goes with the starters, whether it’s spicy or sticky. The Mojito is equally lifting, and with a portion that’ll last a few courses. Want something more spirit-forward? Move on to the Morris (named after owner Chris), an Old Fashioned with a cinnamon twist, or their signature Rumgroni.
Merry: Limehouse is a casual, friendly spot with lively afrohouse Caribbean beats, and a laidback island vibe. You’ll find yourself stranded here, what with the friendly prices and unique offerings. Done with dinner? Head upstairs to Bago, the bar has a massive rum collection, so definitely order a dram – the Abuelo Centuria is something else.
Limehouse, 2 Jiak Chuan Road, Chinatown, tel: 6222-3130. Hours: Tues – Sat, 5pm – midnight.
GINETT RESTAURANT & WINE BAR
Eat: The T.U.F. (Till U’re Full) Brunch at only $42++ will get you way more than you bargained for at this bistro-style restaurant. You can do a la carte sure, but it’s your weekend, so go whole hog and fill up. You choose two dishes from four sections of the menu (equals eight dishes total, math geeks), and the choices include rotisserie, desserts, cheese and cold cuts, salads and eggs. Standouts include the Free Range Organic Rotisserie Chicken, Smoked Salmon Egg Cocotte, Crème Brulee, and the Grilled Veggie Salad. It’s a guaranteed UWBF: U. Will. Be. Full.
Weekend threesome.
Drink: Add another $32++ to the Brunch and you get free flow drinks, a limited selection of Bloody Marys, Muscadets and Mimosas. The Muscadet is tart and fresh and should pair well with most of the dishes, the Bloody Mary will aid in easing your Sunday in, and the Mimosa, well, it’s juice + sparkling. If none of these appeal, then just spring for a bottle of French wine. They have a large selection of reasonably-priced ones which start at $30. At these prices, skip the food, and drink till you’re full.
Merry: The bright, airy interior is a welcome sight on a weekend; it’s friendly and spacious, and a party of 6-8 rabble-rousers should get the high communal table. The T.U.F. deal is one of the best, so we’re likely to go back. Plus Ginett does a killer happy hour on Tuesday.
Ginett Restaurant & Wine Bar, Hotel G Singapore, 200 Middle Road, tel: 6809-7989. Weekend Brunch 11am-4pm.
BIG SAKE BAR
Eat: An Omakase surprise at only $88 (add $20 for a sake carafe, more of that later). The eight-course menu focuses on fresh ingredients and premium grade A4 wagyu beef. Though the courses might change, according to Chef Andy’s whims and available ingredients, you’ll love the sashimi platter, Negitoro Don (quite filling, with quail egg and minced blue fin tuna) and definitely the Asari Miso Soup, with a seafood-based broth that’s nourishing and bracingly delish.
Drink: There’s a fairly decent selection of sakes here. Okay, more than decent. For the omakase set, you’ll have a choice of one of the three house pours to choose from, which you can sample before deciding. The Toyo Bijin (read: Asian Beauty) is a slightly sweet junmai daiginjyo from the Yamaguchi Prefecture. Nabeshima ‘Pink Label’ is a sweet, slightly effervescent tokubetsu honjozo, while the Karakuchi Ki-ippon from Masumi is a dry delight (my choice), a junmai ginjyo that should pair well with most of the dishes. All sakes come in 170ml carafes.
[ Here’s an interesting take on local food entrepreneurs by our friends at Spirited Singapore ]
Merry: The owners here love their quaff, and the vibe here is convivial, laidback and unassuming. Retro style Japanese pop culture posters commandeer the walls; otherwise you’re treated to the sight of loads and loads of sake bottles. As for the name, co-owner Jeremy Goh says it’s because they’re “big on food, big on service, and big on sakes”. To which we can only say, “subarashi”. Heartily recommended.
Big Sake Bar, 302 Beach Road, #01-02, The Concourse Skyline, tel: 6291-2700/9656-7105.
BAM!
Eat: This shudo restaurant has taken the bold step to be a full-fledged omakase eatery. Chef Pepe Moncayo has evolved his Spanish-influenced cuisine and sake-pairing idea from its a la carte origins and now confidently says, “trust me” (or “confía en mí, créeme”, in Spanish). The new focus means you get the best seasonal produce, the freshest ingredients available – and starts at S$98++ for four courses, with a vegetarian option from $78++ as well. The hits: Lobster with eggplant confit, bubuarare and Avruga caviar; Spanish Octopus with enoki & nameko mushrooms and shiokonbu pickles – almost all the surprise dishes were a class above. And then there’s the sake pairing.
Drink: There’s a stellar selection here to pair with the dishes, the 80 labels include small-batch and organic sakes. Pairing costs extra, obviously, depending on how many courses you opted for, and it mostly works (you can’t ever hit 100%). The best was the Inaba Shuzuo Junmai Ginjo paired with the New Zealand grouper, the dry notes complemented the fish well. The Kijuro Tokubetsu Honjozo from the Hyogo region was another great match with the aforementioned Spanish octopus – one word for you: “umami”. You could just as easily order a bottle and dispense with the pairing, but sometimes you’ve got decision fatigue and just want to leave it to the somms.
Merry: With its open concept, you’re privvy to the crew’s nonstop movement and the kitchen’s ceaseless susurration – it all adds to a spirited atmosphere. Chef Moncayo (above) randomly pops by to introduce the dishes, and is likeably chatty. The space is large, so if you prefer some privacy go to the bar side instead. The craft selection is small, but hey, it’s a sake restaurant. Verdict: Trust them.
Bam! 38 Tras Street, tel: 6226-0500. (Closed on Sunday)
APOTHECARY (OXWELL & CO)
Eat: Once you can make it through the illegible menu, you’re in for a treat. The marinated olives and spiced nuts (above) make pretty good snacks, even the fries rate. The mushroom slider is more than adequate, it’s juicy, has bite and texture, and is a decent mealplacement. The food here is meant to be easy-going and fuss free. You can get a more elaborate dinner in the Oxwell & Co restaurant itself.
Drink: Now we’re talking. The bar wears its claim of ‘Powders, Elixirs, Tonics and Tintures’ proudly, so expect the cocktails to be a bit fussier – but it is worth the effort and the wait. The Blood Orange Negroni ($24) is a composition of Hendrick’s Gin, Campari, Mancino Rosso vermouth, and a slice of blood orange gelatin. Ye olde doctor knows how to have a bit of fun, and yes, it’s bloody decent. The Croak & Wheeze Relief ($24) should cure any uncommon ailment you have; it’s a smoky olde fashioned if you will, with Glenfiddich 12 Years Whisky, honey sage syrup, citrus and orange bitters. The fun part is you mixing the potions together. Doctor, heal thyself!
Merry: The décor is eccentric, the space seems like a hidden alcove (ask about the even-more private space behind the bar), and it’s a cosy spot to while away a few hours. If you need fresh air, there’s always the gin garden with tea infusions.
FAT PRINCE
Eat: Modern Eastern Fare. This is a café/bar-kebabery influenced by the vibrancy of the bohemian Karakoy neighbourhood in Istanbul, and the European café culture in the region. The founders and team ate their way through Turkey (6 full meals a day!) to find inspiration. The result: Tasty taco-sized kebabs to share, and side dishes like the Duck Fat Hummus or the Red Quinoa. Both get the Parched thumbs up.
Drink: A variety of Raki is available, as well as classic cocktails with interesting Middle Eastern touches (infused dates, anyone?). Wines are from Morocco and Lebanon (!), and signature cocktails plus house-made sodas (alcohol shot optional) totally make this a watering hole as well.
Merry: The interior by EDG Interior Architecture + Design embodies Istanbul’s opulant café culture and European meets Middle Eastern style as its trademarks. Sitting is either communal or on small tables for intimacy, and food sharing is encouraged.The Ottoman Room at the back is more opulent, review coming soon.
Fat Prince, 44 Peck Seah Street, Tel: 6221-3683.
DRINKS & CO
Eat: The ‘eat’ part of Drinks & Co is relatively new, as they’ve only just opened their own kitchen to revellers. The Holland Village outlet now has weekend brunch for punters who want to start early. The Chef’s Platter includes tapas, cheese and cold cuts, and at $30 for 2 or $50 for 4 it’s a fairly good start. I like the Huevos Rancheros (Mexican eggs, $15) as it’s a perfect hangover dish (I was not) – it’s flavourful and fresh and reminds one of a Bloody Mary. Also I preferred this egg offering instead of the Benedict. The Co Wagyu Burger ($17) is substantial, a chunky portion of meat made bloody and bucolic. In the evenings definitely spring for the pizzas or wings. (Brunch starts 11am at Holland Village only).
Drink: As an alcohol distributor their wine selection is unbeatable both for range and value. You’re getting good boutique wines starting at $40+, we recommend you begin your brunch with Anna de Codorniu Blanc de Blancs $50, and for whites go with Astrolabe Marlborough Chardonnay 2014 $46, and Two Rivers Convergence Sauvignon Blanc $42. The latter is well worth it for its fragrant nose and fresh notes – could drink it all day.
Merry: It’s got a good happy hour here: Draft beer pint $9, a double shot G’Vine Gin & Fever Tree Tonic $9, and house wine by the glass $7. Otherwise just buy a bottle of can’t-fail wine, it’s the best restaurant deal in Singapore. Did we mention spirits by the bottle starts at $65? You can also get a take-home Negroni set for $69. Deals. Just great deals.
Drinks & Co, 27 Jalan Mambong, Holland Village, Tel: 6463-4995.
LEVEL33
Eat: The new menu by Chef Jimi is outrageously good, and it can be matched with the beers as well. The Octopus starter Red with cabbage brine, pomegranate and corn purée, and the Forest (above), with mushrooms in seven textures, 65° organic yolk, oak meringue and pumpernickel crumb with both go with the Blonde Lager or Indian Pale Ale. The Market Catch with pan-baked fish, hazelnut poached salsify, green asparagus and soy gastrique is a ringer for the Wheat.
Drink: It’s LeVeL33, you come here for the beers and nothing else. Well the view, yes, but mostly the beers. Do yourself a favour and just order the Beer Tasting Paddle – you get five 0.1L craft brews. If your timing is right, there’s always a seasonal to sample. In this case, the Pumpkin.
Merry: As mentioned, the sunset is unbeatable, as this bar has a unique view of the bay, nestled as it is by the business district, on one side is the Me@Oue Lounge, on the other is Ce La Vi. And you’re looking right into the Bayfront and the east. Evening tend to get crowded, so make a reservation.
LeVeL33, #33-01, Marina Bay Financial Centre Tower 1, 8 Marina Boulevard.
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